Hand-made elegance was the motto
of Dolce & Gabbana's fall-winter 2019 women's wear collection,
one of the most hyped catwalk shows of Milan's fashion week,
which wrapped up on Monday.
The beauty of women as portrayed by Italians artists, from
Botticelli, to Leonardo, Michelangelo and Piero della Francesca,
and the quality of Italy's sartorial tradition served as
inspiration for a collection that was debuted nearly three
months after the brand was forced to cancel a show in China due
to accusations of racism and cultural appropriation.
The idea was to "discover elegance today", Stefano Gabbana
said on Sunday.
"All fabrics are new, proportions are new".
With 127 models, looks ranged from the new take on the
vintage-inspired menswear silhouette, with double-breasted
pantsuits and tuxedos, to feminine lace slips and skin-tight
pencil dresses.
There were also baroque embellishments that are so much part
of the designer duo's aesthetic and full-look brocade, another
symbol of the label's sophisticated woman.
A section of five bridal dresses also debuted on the catwalk,
ranging from short and A-line to a more classic tulle.
In another key show, aesthetic pizzazz played the lead role
at Gucci, where echoes of the 1980s reverberated with big
shoulders and baggy pants, with spikes as a key motif.
Alessandro Michele's now iconic aesthetic, a winning mix of
pattern and color, paid homage to genderless fashion.
Romance reigned at Prada.
Prada's Anatomy of Romance was another homage seen in Milan
to an iconic brand's DNA with streamlined coats, jackets and a
broad-ranging color palette that embraced the house's military
green seen on jackets, pants and coats.
Floral appliques on dresses played for attention on the
catwalk alongside military looks completed by combat boots - an
ode to the dichotomy of love and war.
Milan's fashion week also saw the debut of Daniel Lee at
Bottega Veneta where he brought a modern vibe to the house's
understated luxury.
Polished leather shift dresses and streamlined coats were
debuted alongside the house's iconic 'intrecciato' leather seen
on coats as well as accessories.
Statement ankle boots were a key accessory of the collection.
Fendi meanwhile paid homage to "fashion's longest love
story".
It was a tribute to Karl Lagerfeld who completed what would
be his final collection for the Roman fashion house where he
worked for 54 years before his death last Tuesday.
Starchy and pointy white collars, a trademark style the
designer also wore, were on the catwalk.
Ladylike tailoring capped off by deluxe accessories which
Lagerfeld has made iconic both at Fendi and Chanel echoed in
nearly every look.
A bold palette and feminine lightness reverberated in a
collection that featured among key looks a leather coat in
terracotta and a double-breasted blazer worn over logo-printed
tights.
Silvia Venturini Fendi took the final bow to the tune of
Heroes by David Bowie, whose music the iconic designer loved.
Paris, the last leg of the fall-winter 2019 womenswear
season, kicks off later on Monday.
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