Paris fashion week has hosted two
key shows helping define what fall-winter 2016 will be about -
Balenciaga and Céline.
The first scheduled on Sunday was Balenciaga with the
much-awaited debut of new artistic director Demna Gvasalia, who
has risen to fashion stardom by taking streetwear to new heights
as the lead designer of influential collective label Vetements.
Then came Céline, in the first show since confirmation that
creative director Phoebe Philo will be staying on at the house
she has revived with a unique new identity since her appointment
in 2008.
Persistent rumors were quashed last month when a memo signed
by Philo and Céline CEO Marco Gobetti reiterating their
commitment to the ongoing partnership was leaked to the media.
Though the two storied houses marked two very different
points in time in their evolution, both collections debuted
Sunday had a strong element of functionality.
At Balenciaga, the show notes referred to reimagining the
work of Cristobal Balenciaga one century ago as a ''translation,
not a reiteration - a new chapter''.
And such translation was first introduced on the catwalk
with skirt suits, dresses and coats with a unique silhouette
characterized by discreetly curved shoulders bent fractionally
forward and slightly padded hips.
The recurring shape created a posture that evoked Cristobal
Balenciaga's tailoring with cutting-edge modernity.
There were wardrobe essentials including oversize puffer
jackets, trench coats, dresses of multiple floral patterns, ski
pants, knee-length cord skirts, oversized sweaters and padded
scarves.
The large purses on the catwalk were inspired by a toolbox,
a shopping tote and a cycling bag, oozing functionality.
Platform PVC boots added spice.
The ''very product-oriented'' focus cited by Gvasalia in an
interview to Women's Wear Daily earlier this year to define the
core of his new work at Balenciaga translated into sculptural
silhouettes for everyday staples.
And the functionality that marked Gvasalia's debut
collection also appeared to permeate Philo's fall 2016 showcase
at Céline.
There were variations on coats and trench coats - also a key
item at Balenciaga.
Silhouettes were made to resonate with Philo's fan base,
including wide bootleg trousers, tunics, oversize sweaters and
flat minimalistic sandals and clutch bags.
Dresses and tunics were styled over flare pants.
Key new additions to a collection mostly featuring a muted
color palette - like Balenciaga - included pajama shirts,
balloon bouclés and party dresses with pockets, embodying the
quintessence of the label's utilitarian minimalism.
With fashion month drawing to a close this week, the French
capital will be hosting the showcases of three leading Italian
brand names - Giambattista Valli later on Monday, Valentino on
Tuesday and Miu Miu on Wednesday, the last day of Paris fashion
week.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © Copyright ANSA
