The classic trench coat has
often been represented in pop-culture history as the timeless
garment worn by men on a mission.
And this icon designed to protect British military officers
against rain and wind during WWI, has seen a new dawn in
fall-winter 2016 collections at the Pitti Uomo trade fair
wrapping up Friday in Florence.
The versatility of the trench coat - so adaptable it was
the signature piece worn by icons as diverse as Humphrey Bogart
in Casablanca, Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther and Prince in
Purple Rain - is amplified next fall across collections debuted
by the over 1,200 labels at the Pitti showcase.
Empoli-based label Landi is celebrating its centennial with
a classic rendition of the garment for which Thomas Burberry
patented his water-repellent fabric, gabardine, in 1879,
inspired by the waterproof linen smocks used by British farmers.
Indeed Empoli near Florence is where 66 firms employed over
20,000 workers between 1907 and 1943 to produce the mac.
Designed in the traditional double-breasted version with
epaulettes, with the same manufacturing techniques used a
century ago, Landi's model in khaki is slightly shiny making it
also highly suitable for mid-season.
Aquascutum, the heritage house founded in 1851 whose trench
coats were donned by Winston Churchill, among others, also
presented its 2016 rendition of the trench at Pitti.
Herno premiered a capsule collection for men and women with
innovative patterns and hues together with illustrator
Pierre-Louis Mascia.
Allegri explored the duality of natural and technical
fibers for a classic take on functionality with the Oslo
single-breasted trench, a house icon, produced in new high-tech
materials.
Meanwhile data released Thursday by Pitti Uomo's press
office on the eve of the last day of the trade fair showed
buyers at this 89th edition were 23,000, up 5% on the previous
edition, including 8,150 foreigners, a 2.5% increase, and almost
15,000 Italians, up 8%.
A significant increase was registered of buyers from
Germany, the US, Great Britain, France, Japan, Spain, the
Netherlands and northern European countries in general.
Markets in China, Hong Kong, Russia and Turkey remain
crucial though slightly declining, organizers said.
And as the top international trade fair wraps up Friday,
the fashion action is moving to Milan for five days of men's
wear fall-winter 2016 shows.
The first of the 39 shows on the official calendar will see
the debut of Peter Dundas with his first men's collection for
Roberto Cavalli after the Norwegian designer was appointed
creative director of the Florentine label last spring.
Saturday will open with Corneliani's fall collection on the
catwalk, followed by Ermenegildo Zegna, which is launching for
the occasion the digital project #zegnavoices with
opinion-makers commenting the fashion show live as they interact
online with creative director Stefano Pilati.
The Armani theater will host the debut of Lucio Vannotti
while Costume National will be presenting its men's wear
collection at the Arengario.
Dolce & Gabbana will debut their collection off the
official calendar as usual while in the afternoon Marni, Jil
Sander, Les Hommes and Neil Barret will debut their fall lineup.
Sunday will open with Bottega Veneta, followed by N21,
Richmond, Salvatore Ferragamo, Calvin Klein Collection, Vivienne
Westwood, Missoni, Daks, Prada,Moncler gamme bleu and Damir
Doma.
Monday will see the debut of fall collections by Diesel
Black Gold, Emporio Armani, Antonio Marras, Gucci, Etro, Msgm,
Canali, Ermanno Scervino, Fendi, Marcelo Burlon county of Milan
and Brioni.
The men's wear Milan shows will wrap up Tuesday with
Dsquared2, Giorgio Armani, Dirk Bikkembergs, Christian
Pellizzari and the debut of Helen Anthony.
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