(by Elisa Cecchi).
An influential group of
designers this fall-winter has conceived an artful synthesis of
textures and patterns in a no-boundaries mix - the fashion
equivalent of fusion cuisine.
Chunky knits, techno fabrics, fringes, tassels, tribal
motifs, geometric and floral patterns are an eyeful across
collections this season in a fusion of cultures and tastes.
This multicultural melding is in tune with a very on-trend
anti-trend attitude that mocks the rise and fall of hemlines and
the inflation and deflation of silhouettes to celebrate
long-lasting clothes.
And the inclination to transcend the boundaries of time
and space is reflected in a key item used by designers to
highlight ethnic references or give a luxurious spin to a
"normcore" mood vying for timeless staples through self-aware
blandness - the fur vest.
Turning a luxury fashion piece par excellence into a vest
has made it versatile, allowing a peek into what lies beneath
the surface.
Donatella Versace has given a bold interpretation to this
piece of outerwear with a lime fur vest she mixed with her
trademark sexy short dresses - the fluorescent palette paying
homage to the Art Deco Le Centorial dome building designed by
Gustave Eiffel that inspired the collection.
Gabriele Colangelo has added an androgynous touch to
"normcore" this fall with clothes inspired by Russian painter
Kazimir Malevich's Black Square and the gray-scale watercolours
of German artist Joachim Bandau.
The austerity is perfectly counterbalanced by rich fur
vests mixed with tailored pieces.
And who better than Italian-Haitian creator Stella Jean to
give fashion fusion a spin.
The young designer who has made a name for herself by
infusing classical western fare with a subtle medley of African,
Asian and Latin American flavours, has designed Mongolia fur
vests to wear over skirts and pants in wax prints matched with
classic Oxford shirts in Vichy checks or striped sweaters.
Designer Simonetta Ravizza has made the fur vest a key
piece of her winter collection with variations on the main theme
to suit a youthful clientele.
Short or long, in a palette of different shades of brown,
red, blue, black and green, Ravizza designed mink, fox, Mongolia
and sable vests to wear over feminine winter staples including
straight skirts, tailored pants and lace tops for a
straightforward deluxe look.
Designer Anna Molinari's Blugirl fall lineup has paid
homage to the globetrotter jetting from Milan to Beijing in one
breath with bold fur vests including a leopard-print version,
along with bolero jackets encrusted with golden beads.
Flavio Castellani has given an edgy spin to this season's
staple, mixing fur with a techno fabric in optical stripes or
using lush sable to craft a gilet high on drama.
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