It takes a firm hand to work
the wealth of inspirations defining this fall and winter's
fashion styles.
The new hype around 'normcore', an anti-style defined by
timeless clothes and accessories, found designers warming up to
chunky knits, oversized coats and fleecy shearling combined with
fastidiously simple accessories such as white sneakers.
Yet resonant ideas in this upcoming season of fevered
extremes will include bold optic prints and a fling with the
1960s.
Overall, architecture is a compelling theme for fall's
silhouettes with a number of designers experimenting with shape
and structure to craft clothes defined alternatively by rigour
or romance.
Architecture makes a bold statement at Marni, where
oversized silhouettes compound the strength of clothes that
represent an edit of the label's essence - avant-garde
sportiness, a daring use of different fabrics, and couture-like
attention to cut and craftsmanship.
Bold volumes reconcile Marni's two souls - art
gallery-worthy sophistication and all things tribal - with
striking pieces including skirts in military felt mixed with
bodices in natural canvas and cocoon-shaped tops worn over
straight or flounced skirts with statement accessories such as
ethnic necklaces.
Outfits are complemented by outstanding zips, another
quintessentially Marni element.
The cerebral quality of more futuristic looks destined to
hit the street as soon as temperatures cool will be complemented
this upcoming season by more romantic, at times sylvan, themes.
Dolce & Gabbana's collection features swans, squirrels and
owls, decorating tunics and jackets.
Alberta Ferretti's trademark femininity is inspired this
season by the forest outside her country house with pieces
garnished with feathers - a key part of her collection -
handcrafted in Florence.
Outstanding numbers include dresses in alpaca decorated
with homespun fringes and loden coats with flashes of sequins.
The ethereal mood takes a step further at Valentino where
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli worked butterflies,
roses and birds over sheer eveningwear which shines with
couture-like quality.
The creative duo have also worked their magic on the 1960s
Italian Pop art theme that shaped the bold patterns and
silhouettes of daywear.
Bold polka dots and optic flowers inspired by the work of
artists including Giosetta Fioroni and Carol Rama are a stark
departure from the operatic old-style romance of previous
collections.
However, the 1960s flavour shaping the clothes is pure
Valentino with the duo's outstanding shirt-collar dresses, capes
and embroidered tulle gowns a key part of the collection.
And along with bold sartorial silhouettes, striking prints
and a touch of romance, no season like this fall season has
embraced the concept of standing out by blending in with comfy
knits, timeless suits and understated accessories.
'Normcore' hit a haute note at Giorgio Armani, Salvatore
Ferragamo and Max Mara, as these Italian fashion houses
translated the hype around this new fashion frontier into
impeccably cut, luxuriously simple basics in neutral shades.
In accessory land, the new mania for sneakers, mixed and
matched to suit any occasion, is the tip of the 'normcore'
iceberg operated by top fashion houses in Italy and across the
Alps, from Valentino to Céline, openly bowing to all-time
classics seen on the street for decades.
Fantasy-driven flings will be complemented by staples -
from tailored coats and jackets to warm knits and the
increasingly popular slip on shoes.
And these deftly cut and detail-free pieces will be
wardrobe basics for seasons to come.
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