(By Elisa Cecchi)
From a Baroque-style couture show
inspired by grand Italian opera last month, Valentino's creative
duo Tuesday in Paris took a different turn in their fall 2014
women's ready-to-wear collection celebrating Italy's female pop
artists.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli looked for
influence from such artists as Carla Accardi, who died just ten
days ago, as well as Carol Rama, Giosetta Fioroni and Palma
Bucarelli.
These were the rule-breakers of the 1960s and 70s.
Yet the two designers who took on the legacy of founder
Valentino Garavani remained true to the house's spirit they have
so finely evolved over the past five years.
Bright shades of red, pink, green, black and white appeared
on baubles decorating the designs.
Different artistic inspirations mingled, like leather
patch-worked into a multicoloured motif recalling Pablo
Picasso's harlequins, the silhouettes of shoulders citing Lucio
Fontana, the abstract patterns of Accardi and dream-like world
of Fioroni quoted in a stunning navy tulle dress with a heart
pinned to the chest and stars on the skirt.
The fairy-like vision of the collection continued with the
surreal world of Carol Rama interpreted by light cardigan coats
and the flowers and butterflies on gowns inspired by Austrian
artist Marlies Plank.
The bold optical-art graphic designs were a departure from
the romantic allure and opulence of past collections.
But the silhouettes and superb elegance of ensembles was
all-out Valentino.
The short dresses sporting sophisticated shirt collars, the
design duo's trademark embroidered evening gowns and capes in a
variety of materials - from lace to leather, silk and
double-face cashmere, which could be pinned on the back to
transform a look - were a clear indication of exactly where the
fashion house's heart is beating.
Patterns of roses, birds and butterflies that appeared to
fly over dresses highlighted the superb handiwork that sets
Valentino and its Roman atelier apart.
And the show included the statement regal gowns and
streamlined day clothes that are a permanent fixture of the
house's collections.
"We always need to create a script, otherwise we are unable
to design a collection", Chiuri and Piccioli said on Tuesday.
And their storyline for next fall talked about artists "who
strived to be something different from their social context" and
inspired their own take on rule-breaking.
"Fashion is about telling a story of beauty and not of
uniformity," they said.
"Our fashion says first and foremost: be yourself".
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