(by Elisa Cecchi).
The gentleman who starred at the 87th edition Pitti Uomo fashion show wrapping up Friday in Florence likes the outdoors and is a globetrotter.
Indeed outerwear and shoes were key pieces in fall-winter 2015-2016 collections debuted by 1,115 Italian and foreign brands at Italy's leading menswear trade show January 12-16.
Informal and practical for the outdoors yet chic enough to hit the city, the fashionable man's wardrobe next fall will include slim-fitting suits - as seen in collections presented by Paoloni and Manuel Ritz.
Pants will be tight and cropped while jackets will either have a slim silhouette or be oversized.
The oversized fit was a staple of the Tailored collection by Tommy Hilfiger dedicated to New York's art world, with inspirations ranging from the jazz scenario in the 1950s to Richard Avedon's photography.
A fresh take on classics suited for a young clientele will see sportswear cohabiting with the ''casual sartorial'' style superbly masterminded by Brunello Cucinelli, who presented finely knitted jackets and coats for next fall.
The Solomeo-based entrepreneur registered revenues worth 355.8 million euros in 2014, according to preliminary data released during Pitti Uomo.
And if menswear recorded a 1.2% growth worth some 8.6 billion euros in 2014, after several negative seasons, this new post-crisis dawn saw the resurgence of outerwear in straightforward materials ranging from wool to leather and nylon with the deluxe touch limited to the lining - in cashmere or fur.
Short, slim coats oozing 1970s cool reigned at Lardini, Roy Roger's and Paoloni.
Men will also be ready to hit the slopes next winter with down jackets in goatskin, cashmere sweaters and the timeless staple par excellence in sportswear - the parka - with an oversized silhouette seen at Herno, Husky and Bogner.
The duffle coat is another key piece that is here to stay.
Malbrun designed a model with a detachable lining, the perfect travel companion to suit different climates.
Accessories will be key in giving collections a twist next fall with a lead role for hats and bow-ties - as seen at Jaggy and Tibi Tie.
Waistcoats will also be a must.
L.B.M. 1911 designed finely printed versions to uplift any outfit.
In the accessories department, Oxford shoes reigned with new colors including different shades of burgundy, plum and blueberry, as well as moss and black.
Two-tone shades in the upper part of the shoe debuted in more elegant versions as well as sportier models with chunky soles in ultra-light rubber for supreme comfort.
Neapolitan label Harmont&Blane presented bicolor derby shoes and minimalistic boots.
Deluxe spazzolato or textured calfskin, suede, nappa leather, suede and buckskin reigned at Pantofola d'Oro and Geox.
Florentine label Roy Roger's hosted London-based shoe shiner Jock Kennedy to pay homage to the trade fair's walkabout theme.
And another in-house historic brand, Ferragamo, debuted the 'Creations Uomo' line paying homage to the models designed by its founder Salvatore Ferragamo in the 1950s.
With Pitti Uomo closing its doors Friday, data released on the eve of the final day showed a 20% increase in Italian buyers and a 13% hike for international buyers.
Overall, buyers were an estimated 24,000 at this edition of Pitti Uomo, up 18% from the winter show last year of the biannual trade fair.
''The edition was encouraging, an excellent start of the season that brings great confidence and optimism'', said Raffaello Napoleone, the chief executive of Pitti Immagine.
Foreign markets appeared particularly promising.
The Italy Fashion System (SMI) organization grouping fashion producers expects Italian menswear to continue growing this year, driven by exports.
Italian menswear exports last year went up 5.1%, for a total of 5.5 billion euros.
Forecasts expect an excellent performance from both Japan and Germany, up almost 20%.
France, the top foreign market for Italian menswear for a number of seasons now, is expected to register a 30% increase, as well as North European markets including Sweden, Norway and Finland, which could grow as much as 40%.
Non-European markets also appear promising, in particular China, which is slated to grow 30% and the US, up 6%.
Italian menswear is also expected to sell well across the Middle East, Canada, India, Mexico, South Africa, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand.
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