(by Elisa Cecchi).
The gentleman who starred at the
87th edition Pitti Uomo fashion show wrapping up Friday in
Florence likes the outdoors and is a globetrotter.
Indeed outerwear and shoes were key pieces in fall-winter
2015-2016 collections debuted by 1,115 Italian and foreign
brands at Italy's leading menswear trade show January 12-16.
Informal and practical for the outdoors yet chic enough to
hit the city, the fashionable man's wardrobe next fall will
include slim-fitting suits - as seen in collections presented by
Paoloni and Manuel Ritz.
Pants will be tight and cropped while jackets will either
have a slim silhouette or be oversized.
The oversized fit was a staple of the Tailored collection
by Tommy Hilfiger dedicated to New York's art world, with
inspirations ranging from the jazz scenario in the 1950s to
Richard Avedon's photography.
A fresh take on classics suited for a young clientele will
see sportswear cohabiting with the ''casual sartorial'' style
superbly masterminded by Brunello Cucinelli, who presented
finely knitted jackets and coats for next fall.
The Solomeo-based entrepreneur registered revenues worth
355.8 million euros in 2014, according to preliminary data
released during Pitti Uomo.
And if menswear recorded a 1.2% growth worth some 8.6
billion euros in 2014, after several negative seasons, this new
post-crisis dawn saw the resurgence of outerwear in
straightforward materials ranging from wool to leather and nylon
with the deluxe touch limited to the lining - in cashmere or
fur.
Short, slim coats oozing 1970s cool reigned at Lardini, Roy
Roger's and Paoloni.
Men will also be ready to hit the slopes next winter with
down jackets in goatskin, cashmere sweaters and the timeless
staple par excellence in sportswear - the parka - with an
oversized silhouette seen at Herno, Husky and Bogner.
The duffle coat is another key piece that is here to stay.
Malbrun designed a model with a detachable lining, the
perfect travel companion to suit different climates.
Accessories will be key in giving collections a twist next
fall with a lead role for hats and bow-ties - as seen at Jaggy
and Tibi Tie.
Waistcoats will also be a must.
L.B.M. 1911 designed finely printed versions to uplift any
outfit.
In the accessories department, Oxford shoes reigned with
new colors including different shades of burgundy, plum and
blueberry, as well as moss and black.
Two-tone shades in the upper part of the shoe debuted in
more elegant versions as well as sportier models with chunky
soles in ultra-light rubber for supreme comfort.
Neapolitan label Harmont&Blane presented bicolor derby
shoes and minimalistic boots.
Deluxe spazzolato or textured calfskin, suede, nappa
leather, suede and buckskin reigned at Pantofola d'Oro and Geox.
Florentine label Roy Roger's hosted London-based shoe
shiner Jock Kennedy to pay homage to the trade fair's walkabout
theme.
And another in-house historic brand, Ferragamo, debuted the
'Creations Uomo' line paying homage to the models designed by
its founder Salvatore Ferragamo in the 1950s.
With Pitti Uomo closing its doors Friday, data released on
the eve of the final day showed a 20% increase in Italian buyers
and a 13% hike for international buyers.
Overall, buyers were an estimated 24,000 at this edition of
Pitti Uomo, up 18% from the winter show last year of the
biannual trade fair.
''The edition was encouraging, an excellent start of the
season that brings great confidence and optimism'', said
Raffaello Napoleone, the chief executive of Pitti Immagine.
Foreign markets appeared particularly promising.
The Italy Fashion System (SMI) organization grouping
fashion producers expects Italian menswear to continue growing
this year, driven by exports.
Italian menswear exports last year went up 5.1%, for a
total of 5.5 billion euros.
Forecasts expect an excellent performance from both Japan
and Germany, up almost 20%.
France, the top foreign market for Italian menswear for a
number of seasons now, is expected to register a 30% increase,
as well as North European markets including Sweden, Norway and
Finland, which could grow as much as 40%.
Non-European markets also appear promising, in particular
China, which is slated to grow 30% and the US, up 6%.
Italian menswear is also expected to sell well across the
Middle East, Canada, India, Mexico, South Africa, Singapore,
Taiwan and Thailand.
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